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Right, that signal is coming in the collector side of Q4011.
Originally Posted by Mr_WoRRieD
The Xbox360 is setup the same way, and mine works just fine with +12 to the positive side, coming from a power transistor on the mainboard. The XB360 has two fans, one shrouded to the GPU, and one shrouded to the CPU, in the same shroud. The one at the GPU, I have on FULL speed....
Right again, disconnecting gray will not stop the pules, as they are coming from Q4011, which is tied into the ground and +12 lines at C4032, as the switching device. As I said, the gray monitors the RPMs of the fan, which those pulses are sent back to Q4011. It's kind of like a loop system, not a phased lock loop, or anything as such, but its a looping process, with exception of the pulse source from the collector side of Q4011. ALSO, there is a jumped resistor from the base to emitter, as well as the emitter signal. The fan works on a temperature feedback loop where it's speed increases as required relative to the temperature of the GPU.
Ahh, ok!! From what I gather from your post, all you need do is connect 3.3V to the PWM wire after the header, and it WILL run at full speed!! If you have an older PS3, where you do the FAN test? Measure the voltage on PWM when the fan is on HIGHEST.
Look for the 5 pin connector coming off the power supply. The pin nearest the edge of the case should be 3.3V. Test with a multimeter to be sure. Now splice the wire coming from your fan (PWM) to the 3.3V line from the PSU. 3.3V on the PWM line; will force the PS3 fan to full speed. I think that's it.... Or, you can use a 50K pot in between to control the RPMS manually!
The only way to do it accurately, would be to use a 555 timing chip with a POT adjust, because the fan at FULL is going to be VERY LOUD.
ok, did the final test today, disconnected all wires from the ps3 , hooked up two adapters to the net, one set at 3V and the other to 12V , connected the two grounds and hooked it all up to an breadboard.
put an TLC555 in and the needed components (see schematic) and hooked up the wires from the fan.
With my counter divider i found out the 555 is running at 1.5 Khz.
the fan controls beautifully with the potmeter, hooked an multimeter to the gray wire and noticed that it displays 0.86V at low speed (same as ps3 is just turned on) and it sounds at max at 2.4V, can't hear any difference if i raise voltage to 3V.
in my test the ps3 is not connected, so can we conclude now that this is not an ordinary fan? ;)
TL555 must be TLC555, my mistake.
@Powerslave, i don't have the fan test in my 60Gb ps3.
Yes, you need that circuit/design, & I have seen it; to be able to CONTROL the fan manually, but if you just put the 3.3V on the PWM it would run FULL speed, and that's pretty loud.
So, Powerslave , what do you think of my own design? , it will extend the pulses from the ps3, with P1 at minimum the output pulse is the same as the input from the ps3 , and P1 at max, i measured an output voltage of 2.2V (ps3 pwm voltage was 0.63V when measuring).
anyway you can't go below the ps3's initial fan speed and if the ps3 raises the pulsewidth the output will follow.
i have tested this with the 555 circuit to simulate the ps3, so i can test pulsewidth raising and how the output reacts in response. (with different C3 and P1, because of different freq./pulsewidth)
and ofcourse tested it on the ps3 as well , no splicing into the 5wire connector needed , the fan connector is all you need :)
Personally i feel happier if i know the ps3 can still raise the fan speed if it wants to.
REG = TS2940CZ 3.3V (regulator)
C1,C2 = 10microF/16V electric capacitor
C3 = 470pF
R1 = 4K7
P1 = 47K
Diode = 1N4148
IC = cmos 4093
Where is the pin 3.3 V supply of the ps3 slim? Have a picture or diagram to show? If I connect the gray wire at pin 3.3 V and only put a potentiometer in it, will have control over the speed of fan?
Mr_WoRRieD: Whatever works, but I tend not to OVER do it...
ok, i get it , but with so much components lyring around, it's hard not to over do it :)
@glauber the 3v3 must be only available on the mainboard, it's easier to use the +5V
Ă*'m against using an potmeter only, tried it myself and found the fan to act very unstable.
Is it me or what? What's the point in controlling the fans speed in the first place if you don't have a temperature guage? How will you know when to kick in the speed? Besides, the fan speed is software regulated anyway... If you manually change the fan speed, fine. But the software will bring down the speed anyway if it thinks the heat sources are getting to hot. But, the heat source won't get hot if you turn up the fan speed. But then again, it will get to hot if you are to late to turn up the fan speed. But, the software will take over. So again, what's the point in the first place?
Someone, please, explain?
Edit: Btw, I'm not an electrician. Just asking and sharing my thoughts.
If you mod your Ps3's fan in such a way as to control it's speed, the Ps3 will no longer have control over the fan. The fan will always run at whatever speed you set it too. Why have a temp gauge if your ps3's fans are constantly running at full speed?
Originally Posted by Bounkass
Though while we're on the topic, a temp gauge might be nice to have. I think I'll get one....
Walking through, I see the light. It guides me towards my destiny. Do you not see yours?
Favorite game: Resident Evil 2, and it damn sure needs a remake, with story fully intact, and environment/characters translated to higher detail. Gameplay mechanics need a rev too.
Well, if so, I hope for your sake the fan has ball bearings, and not needle roller bearings... If not, you're screwed if it turns at full speed the whole time... If I'm not mistaken, needle roller bearings can't cope with with horizontal movements.
Originally Posted by Fantafaust
Another question; Why let it go full speed if the PlayStation 3 monitors it in the first place? If it get's too hot, the software will kick the speed up a notch, and if it cools down again, it will kick the speed down a notch. Saving that precious needle roller bearing life span... By the way, why change something that works perfectly fine? Do you know why they replaced the 19 blade fans with the 15 blade fans? And they replaced the CECHxx power supplies with other, cooler ones? Exactly, there's nothing wrong with the cooling, it's the power supply that causes the overheating the problem... Replace that with a certain very cool power supply and you're done.
About the temperature guage, I've looked for some very small one's around the internet, but I didn't find anything. Though, I wish you all the best with searching! If you do fine one, let me know!