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Thread: XB360 REPAIR - SOLDERING TECHNIQUES - OTHER RELATED INFORMATION

  
  1. #1
    Powerslave is offline Gone fishin -Hacks Titan
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    Soldering Techniques Updated 10/13/07

    Soldering is a skill that is handy to know for many types of construction and repair. For modern small appliances, it is less important than it once was as solderless connectors have virtually replaced solder for internal wiring.

    However, there are times where soldering is more convenient. Use of the proper technique is critical to reliability and safety. A good solder connection is not just a bunch of wires and terminals with solder dribbled over them. When done correctly, the solder actually bonds to the surface of the metal (usually copper) parts.

    Effective soldering is by no means difficult but some practice may be needed to perfect your technique.

    The following guidelines will assure reliable solder joints:

    * Only use rosin core solder (e.g., 60/40 tin/lead) for electronics work. A 1 pound spool will last a long time and costs about $10. Suggested diameter is .030 to .060 inches for appliances. The smaller size is preferred as it will be useful for other types of precision electronics repairs or construction as well. The rosin is used as a flux to clean the metal surface to assure a secure bond. NEVER use acid core solder or the stuff used to sweat copper pipes! The flux is corrosive and it is not possible to adequately clean up the connections afterward to remove all residue.

    * Keep the tip of the soldering iron or gun clean and tinned. Buy tips that are permanently tinned - they are coated and will outlast countless normal copper tips. A quick wipe on a wet sponge when hot and a bit of solder and they will be as good as new for a long time. (These should never be filed or sanded).

    * Make sure every part to be soldered - terminal, wire, component leads - is free of any surface film, insulation, or oxidation. Fine sandpaper or an Xacto knife may be used, for example, to clean the surfaces. The secret to a good solder joint is to make sure everything is perfectly clean and shiny and not depend on the flux alone to accomplish this. Just make sure the scrapings are cleared away so they don't cause short circuits.

    * Start with a strong mechanical joint. Don't depend on the solder to hold the connection together. If possible, loop each wire or component lead through the hole in the terminal. If there is no hole, wrap them once around the terminal. Gently anchor them with a pair of needlenose pliers.

    * Use a properly sized soldering iron or gun: 20-25 W iron for fine circuit board work; 25-50 W iron for general soldering of terminals and wires and power circuit boards; 100-200 W soldering gun for chassis and large area circuit planes. With a properly sized iron or gun, the task will be fast - 1 to 2 seconds for a typical connection - and will result in little or no damage to the circuit board, plastic switch housings, insulation, etc. Large soldering jobs will take longer but no more than 5 to 10 seconds for a large expanse of copper. If it is taking too long, your iron is undersized for the task, is dirty, or has not reached operating temperature. For appliance work there is no need for a fancy soldering station - a less than $10 soldering iron or $25 soldering gun as appropriate will be all that is required.

    * Heat the parts to be soldered, not the solder. Touch the end of the solder to the parts, not the soldering iron or gun. Once the terminal, wires, or component leads are hot, the solder will flow via capillary action, fill all voids, and make a secure mechanical and electrical bond. Sometimes, applying a little from each side will more effectively reach all nooks and crannies.

    * Don't overdo it. Only enough solder is needed to fill all voids. The resulting surface should be concave between the wires and terminal, not bulging with excess solder.

    * Keep everything absolutely still for the few seconds it takes the solder to solidify. Otherwise, you will end up with a bad connection - what is called a 'cold solder joint'.

    * A good solder connection will be quite shiny - not dull gray or granular. If your result is less than perfect reheat it and add a bit of new solder with flux to help it reflow.

    Practice on some scrap wire and electronic parts. It should take you about 3 minutes to master the technique!

    A web site dedicated to teaching newbies solder skills is here: http://soldering.tehskeen.com/

    Last edited by dbrums; 04-14-2013 at 03:11 PM. Reason: updating

  2. #2
    Powerslave is offline Gone fishin -Hacks Titan
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    DESOLDER METHODS

    SOLDER WIC is the best thing to use to soak up Solder in a pinch. You place the solder WIC on the solder, apply the iron to the WIC, and the solder is soaked up by the WIC.

    Experienced users use what is called a "Solderpolt" that sucks up the solder. It is a PLUNGER action tube - you push down the plunger, heat the solder while the nozzle is by it, press the button, and Thoomp, the solder is sucked up.

    A Desolder Gun/Iron has a vacuum tube, like a surgeon uses suction during an operation. The solder is vacuumed up as you apply heat and melt it.

  3. #3
    Powerslave is offline Gone fishin -Hacks Titan
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    TRACE & SOLDER PAD REPAIR

    Do not get all upset if you broke a trace or lifted a pad from the motherboard! This is easy to repair.
    Use Wire-wrap wire for repairs.

    Traces may be damaged due to poor soldering or desoldering techniques or by acting as fuses due to short circuits. Where there is just a gap in a trace, it may be possible to scrape off any protective coating (the solder mask) and then soldering a bare jumper wire to bridge the gap. DO NOT just put a blob of solder there - it won't last. However, it is often better to remove the remains of the trace entirely, by simply soldering a wire between the two end-points.

    Also, never DRILL in to the holes on the mainboard. The holes contain copper inside them as well, that connects to the multi-layers, and the pad on other side of the mainboard. Picture it like a cylinder wall inside an engine block, but with connections in between on multi layer boards.

    If you break a pad, all you need to do is solder a jumper from one side of the trace to the other side, just bridge the break in the trace! If you want to, you can jumper it from the originating pad to the component or pad it conencts to . No matter how you do it, you only have to jumper it.

    If you lifted a pad or broke it? Jumper it as well. You may also need to jumper it to the other side of the board as well.

    If you toasted or broke a surface mount Resistor or Capacitor, you can jumper in a regular one. Find the vaule of the component and place it in jumper and solder it into the curcuit.

    ( ) = Broken or Lifted pad.
    / / = Break in trace.
    /C/ = Damaged or broken component
    O = Pad
    C = Component
    \----/ = Jumper

    Bad Trace:
    O----/ /-----> (to pad or component)
    \----/
    -or-
    O----/ /-----> (to pad or component)
    \ ---------/

    Broken Component (Heat damage, lifted off board) a Restor or Capacitor:
    -/C/-----------O
    \----C-------/
    Notice where the jumper is placed in this instance, on the LEFT side of the component. The broken component is a break in the circuit, so placing the jumper on the RIGHT side of the component is still a break.

    Lifted Pad:
    ---( )--------
    \-----/
    \---------> To Pad on other side of mainboard.

  4. #4
    Powerslave is offline Gone fishin -Hacks Titan
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    This tutorial was a personal experience, and done to repair one DVD drive with another one. It may fit your situation, as it did his.

    How To Build A New Xbox 360 DVD Drive - troy2000

    After my main 360 was banned from live, I had to turn to my launch model 360 (not my best decision, I admit). The downside of this being that it had an old 46D drive, and when I had ejected the disc after an hour of playing forza 2, I noticed to my horror a ring of scratched surface, just like what happens when you change the consoles position while the disc is spinning. Since the console was never moved this was very odd, and I decided to get a new DVD drive to prevent any more ruined games. Unfortunately, there were none for sale on any UK or Ireland site, so I had to take matters into my own hands.

    This tutorial will explain how to use your banned/bricked 360's working DVD drive on a 360 which has a physically damaged drive, or a drive which scratched discs randomly. To make sure this is well understood, this tutorial WILL NOT revive a 360 DVD drive which has been bricked by SOFTWARE (aka, firmware flashing) means.

    First, open up your non-banned 360 and take out the dvd drive.



    Remove all metal casing from the drive.

    Do the same with your banned Xbox 360.

    Turn both drives over, and you will see a circuit board connecting to the laser section, and motor section. Carefully, very carefully disconnect these cables and remove the board; there are plastic clips at one side which are pushed down on to pull the board out. Make sure you remove the boards on both Xbox 360s. DO NOT MIX THESE BOARDS UP!!

    Now, reconnect the boards to the opposite drives. Banned 360 board to unbanned 360 drive and vise versa. Now re-assemble everything, and you're done.

    Enjoy your new DVD drive!

  5. #5
    Powerslave is offline Gone fishin -Hacks Titan
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    How to Replace Xbox 360 Laser Lens - Samsung - http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=92.html

    First you will need to take your 360 apart. There are other guides to show you this. Then remove the DVD-Rom. Once you have your drive out turn it over and take out the 4 screws. Remove the top and bottom covers.

    Now that we have the drive apart and ready we need to prepare the new Laser Unit.


    There is a big solder point on the side of the Laser Unit that needs to be removed for it to work. With a desoldering pen or desoldering wick remove the solder. Here is another pic of the Original 360 Laser Unit but it will give you the general area of where the solder is if you can't figure it out from the pic above.


    Removing the old Laser.


    Remove the Ribbon Cable in the above pic by carefully sliding it out. Be very careful not to damage the cable.
    Turn the drive over.


    In the pic above you will need to push the black clamp labeled 'A' to the right while lifting up on the right side of the board. Only pic it up just enough to remove the 3 cables shown. And again be very careful not to rip or damage the cables. After the 3 cables are removed you can take the board off and set it off to the side.


    With a small screwdriver remove the 3 Screws shown above. After removing the one at the top take the white cover and flip it over off of the Laser Unit. The 2 at the bottom just remove the screws and the black pieces holding the rails down. Then pop the rails up with your fingers and slide the Laser unit off.

    Slide the new one back on and put your drive back together, test before putting XB360 back together. If the repair did not work, then something is wrong, or damaged. This does work when done carefully.

  6. #6
    Powerslave is offline Gone fishin -Hacks Titan
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    COMPLETE DVD DRIVE REPLACEMENT

    If you need to replace the DVD drive in your Xbox360, it is no where near as easy as the original xbox, in fact, it is exactly opposite. The HDD in the XB1 was the starting security point.

    If your drive has a logic failure, you can't replace it, UNLESS; you can read the firmware get the KEY, or you already have your key. The easy replacements are usually mechanical failures, that being the Spindle motor, Eject Mechanism, or laser assembly.

    The EASY Way:
    For drives with just a mechanical failure (spindle, tray, laser), simply buy (ebay) the same drive & firmware revision you have. Then, open them up, and swap the logic boards, simple as that. Install the replacement, and all should all be ok. I have done this, no problems. Some drives, like the older Hitachi, have different firmware revisions but the insides are the same, just swap logic boards.

    If you had a logic failure, but could get the Key, or logic failure and you already have your firmware and Key; or, you just want to replace it the hard way with a mechanical failure:

    To be safe: You need to locate the exact same drive, make, and firmware version you currently have, for a seamless install.

    You will have to open your Xbox360, go through most of the process as if you were going to hack the drive, to see if you can read the firmware to get the key. If you can extract the original firmware, and keys from the broken drive, you stop there, and keep that information. Then you remove the broken drive.

    With the exact replacement drive, you go through the entire hack/flash process, except you will be flashing the OEM firmware back to it, with your keys.

    If you get another drive, like a Hitachi over Samsung? You can replace the drive, but you risk a Ban from Xbox live, and may get one of the following Errors:

    E65 - DVD Drive Error - Wrong firmware - No firmware - Bad firmware - drive door not closed on boot: This can also happen if you replace your drive with the SAME drive, but with a different version.

    E66 - DVD Drive Version/Firmware Version Check Fail. The DVD drive or firmware does not match what is stored on the console & expected by dashboard - (FALL06 UPDATE) - an attempt to counteract some modding: You can get this error when you change models completely.

    If the drive can be spoofed, then you have a better chance of being ok.

    Again, you go through the HACK process, but use the new drives firmware you extracted, and use the key from your old drive, and flash it back to the new drive with your key. In most cases, you may as well flash the unit with the iXtreme firmware for that drive, with your key, because; you are probably going to get banned anyway, because they will assume you hacked your drive when you changed models or firmware versions. Spoofing may work in this case. Spoofing means you get the new, different model drive, to report as your original. You will need firmware for this if you can find it. In all cases, YOU NEED YOUR KEY!!

    Note, that Xtreme firmwares still contain the version that is needed for that portion of the security check, which is why it works, and why you need the Xtreme firmware made for your drive. The MS25 and MS28 Xtreme are basically the same, except for the version they report, and same with Hitachi and BenQ.

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